• 作者: dfmzhu
• 來(lái)源: 佛山展翅調(diào)酒咖啡西點(diǎn)培訓(xùn)學(xué)校
• 日期: 2016-07-17
• 瀏覽次數(shù): 3143 次

The itinerant vodka cocktail that deserves to wander on to modern menus. By Seamus Harris. 這款四處流浪的伏特加雞尾酒值得成為現(xiàn)代酒單的一員。Seamus Harris撰文。

從喬治•比才的卡門到夏洛蒂•勃朗特筆下喬裝打扮的羅徹斯特先生，吉普賽人在歐洲人的想象中始終占據(jù)著一個(gè)小而生動(dòng)的角落。在那個(gè)世襲君主制當(dāng)?shù)赖臅r(shí)代，吉普賽民主選舉首領(lǐng)的理念尤其令人神往。即使在今天，吉普賽女王這個(gè)名字仍然有著巨大的魔力，引發(fā)人們對(duì)那個(gè)逝去年代的無(wú)限遐想。在過(guò)去一個(gè)世紀(jì)甚至更為久遠(yuǎn)的歲月里，吉普賽女王曾被拿來(lái)給各種東西冠名，其中有煙草品牌、運(yùn)河船、飛機(jī)引擎、無(wú)聲電影、風(fēng)信子、1970年代地下?lián)u滾樂(lè)隊(duì)的單曲、1920年代游遍美國(guó)的母馬、眾多英國(guó)夜總會(huì)、數(shù)不清的賽馬，當(dāng)然還有雞尾酒。

From Georges Bizet’s Carmen to Charlotte Bronte’s disguised Mr Rochester, gypsies have long monopolised a small but lively corner of the European imagination. Especially captivating has been the notion of gypsy royalty, democratically elected in a time of all-powerful hereditary monarchs. Even today the name Gypsy Queen retains a nostalgic magnetism. Over the past century or more, Gypsy Queen has variously referred to a tobacco brand, a canal boat, an aircraft engine, a silent movie, a hyacinth, a single from a 1970s underground rock band, a mare famous for traversing every state of the US in the 1920s, multiple English pubs, countless racehorses and a cocktail.

這款稀有伏特加雞尾酒的起源可以追溯到威士忌和金酒稱霸的前伏特加年代。出于對(duì)裝飾藝術(shù)的盲目崇拜，軟呢帽狂人們對(duì)這種大眾烈酒根本瞧不上眼，但這一值得復(fù)興的伏特加風(fēng)潮先驅(qū)定會(huì)讓他們眼界大開。

This last is a rare vodka drink with pedigree dating to the pre-vodka age, when whisky and gin ruled unchallenged. Worthy of a revival, this trailblazer on vodka’s rise to pre-eminence is a perfect eye-opener for fedora fetishists seduced into sniffy disdain for the plain spirit by blind worship of Art Deco aesthetics.

吉普賽女王（有時(shí)簡(jiǎn)稱為吉普賽）很可能誕生于禁酒令后的紐約，當(dāng)時(shí)伏特加在美國(guó)充其量只能算是個(gè)新奇之物。William Guyer所著的《歡樂(lè)調(diào)酒師》（1933年）就是這種心態(tài)的真實(shí)寫照。Guyer在原料部分不無(wú)諷刺地說(shuō)伏特加 “在俄語(yǔ)中代表著‘糟糕透頂’”，通篇未收錄一種伏特加雞尾酒。即使是1930年代露天廣場(chǎng)上最有先見之明的吉普賽占卜師，也無(wú)法透過(guò)水晶球預(yù)見伏特加會(huì)在二十年之后顛覆酒飲界格局。

Likely invented in post-Prohibition New York, the Gypsy Queen (sometimes simply the Gypsy) was born into a world where vodka was a curiosity at best. William Guyer’s The Merry Mixer(1933) summarises the mindset of the day. Guyer lists vodka in his ingredients section solely to glibly dismiss it as “Russian for ‘horrendous’”, and does not pollute his bible with a single vodka cocktail. Even the most prescient gypsy fortune teller working a 1930s fairground could hardly have peered into her crystal ball and warned that within two decades vodka would turn the drinking world on its head.

不過(guò)這在日后的確成為了現(xiàn)實(shí)，而這從吉普賽女王的豐富層次中可以窺見些許端倪。吉普賽女王一點(diǎn)也不單調(diào)乏味，充分展現(xiàn)了伏特加尤其是絕對(duì)伏特加的調(diào)酒潛力，換一種風(fēng)味更佳的烈酒反倒會(huì)讓它失色。它的出現(xiàn)還讓一個(gè)棘手的難題迎刃而解。像法國(guó)廊酒和查特酒這樣有益健康的草本利口酒味道甘美，但純飲的話會(huì)太甜——黑咖啡可以起到很好的中和作用，不過(guò)餐后同時(shí)飲用咖啡和利口酒的傳統(tǒng)現(xiàn)在幾乎消失了。所以，這一類好喝的利口酒雖然不容忽視，卻只在寥寥幾款雞尾酒中得到了運(yùn)用，而且沒(méi)有一款完整展現(xiàn)了它們的美妙風(fēng)味。吉普賽女王以一種自由奔放的方式解決了這個(gè)問(wèn)題；打破常規(guī)，把伏特加作為基酒。

But that is exactly what happened, and the Gypsy Queen’s luminous depths reveal hints of why. Far from a dull cocktail that would be improved by substituting something more flavoursome for the vodka, the Gypsy Queen showcases vodka’s mixological power. This is a drink that solves a real problem. Luscious herbal elixirs like Benedictine and Chartreuse are overly sweet if sipped straight – with black coffee they come into their own, but the tradition of after-dinner coffee and liqueurs is now seldom observed. So you have a class of liqueurs too delicious to neglect, yet showcased in only a few cocktails, which in any case obscure their full deliciousness. The free-spirited solution conjured up by the Gypsy Queen was to thumb her nose at convention and pour vodka as a base.

吉普賽女王用伏特加對(duì)法國(guó)廊酒進(jìn)行了慷慨的洗禮。法國(guó)廊酒讓伏特加變得有趣，而絕對(duì)伏特加的順滑和飽滿將法國(guó)廊酒的甜膩?zhàn)兊闷胶夂颓逍骡恕Ｕ绾笸藥撞娇梢愿玫匦蕾p畫作，絕對(duì)伏特加為法國(guó)廊酒打開了一個(gè)更為廣闊的視野。相比后來(lái)出現(xiàn)的伏特加雞尾酒，別出心裁的吉普賽女王更加符合手工雞尾酒的精髓，即使是最激進(jìn)的反伏特加狂熱分子也無(wú)法抗拒它的魔力。

The Gypsy Queen baptises Benedictine liberally with vodka. The Benedictine makes the vodka interesting, while the vodka chisels Benedictine’s saccharine excess into a balanced and bracing aperitif. Like stepping back from a painting, the vodka opens a more panoramic perspective on the Benedictine. This innovative cocktail is craftier than most subsequent vodka creations, a magic potion to spark reflection from even the fiercest anti-vodka zealot.

順便提一下，那匹母馬吉普賽女王的環(huán)美之旅無(wú)意間蒙上了一層懷舊色彩。它的主人Frank M Heath在日記中詳細(xì)記載了這次歷時(shí)兩年的旅程，當(dāng)時(shí)汽車逐漸興起，大篷車慢慢被淘汰，對(duì)吉普賽人來(lái)說(shuō)在這個(gè)世界上生存越來(lái)越艱難。他們的其他生計(jì)也逐漸步上了大篷車的后塵，如采摘啤酒花和豌豆（現(xiàn)在都是靠機(jī)器完成），或者販賣手工編織的冬青樹花環(huán)及木制衣夾（現(xiàn)在都是中國(guó)制造的塑料制品）。吉普賽人的生活失去了游走在日常生活邊緣的多姿多彩，如今那只存在于人們的想象之中。

Incidentally, the journey across the United States by the mare christened Gypsy Queen proved unintentionally nostalgic. Painstakingly recorded in diary form by her rider, one Frank M Heath, this two-year trip coincided with the rise of the automobile, the disappearance of the horse and cart, and the transformation of the world into a place inhospitable to gypsies. Other mainstays of gypsy life have gradually gone the way of the horse and cart, such as picking hops and peas (now done by machines), or selling hand-woven holly wreaths and wooden clothes pegs (now plastic and made in China). From colourful figures roaming the fringes of everyday life, gypsies have retreated into the imagination.

不過(guò)，歷史的車輪滾滾向前，無(wú)人可擋。吉普賽人的時(shí)代一去不復(fù)返，而伏特加即將步入更光明的未來(lái)。沒(méi)有必要把前伏特加時(shí)代浪漫化：如果心存偏見的手工調(diào)酒師像驅(qū)趕吉普賽流浪者一樣，傲慢地將伏特加排除在雞尾酒單之外，那就太可惜了。伏特加在調(diào)酒天才的妙手中可是魔力無(wú)限。

But progress cannot be halted. Just as gypsies are not returning, vodka is not on the verge of decamping for greener pastures. There is no point romanticizing the pre-vodka age and prejudiced craft bartenders miss an opportunity when they snootily banish vodka from cocktail lists as if shooing away some gypsy loiterer. Used adeptly, by one with the gift, vodka has plenty of magic to offer.

The Gypsy Queen / 吉普賽女王

60ml 伏特加
30ml 法國(guó)廊酒
1滴 安高天娜苦精

加冰攪勻，濾入冰過(guò)的雞尾酒杯。以一小片檸檬皮卷裝飾。

60ml Vodka
30ml Benedictine
1ds Angostura bitters

Stir over ice, strain into a chilled cocktail glass and garnish with a small lemon twist.

上述配方比例是1930年代俄國(guó)茶室的版本。David Embury建議可以調(diào)得更干一些。15毫升法國(guó)廊酒和75毫升伏特加的比例也能打造出一款出色雞尾酒。

吉普賽女王改編版本眾多。David Embury推薦使用橙味苦精。也可以用其他草本利口酒代替法國(guó)廊酒，如查特酒 。有些老配方甚至加入檸檬和橙汁把它做成酸酒。如果將15毫升伏特加換成干邑，同時(shí)減少法國(guó)廊酒的用量，風(fēng)味會(huì)更加豐富—— 幾乎就是更微妙的B&B。

These proportions are from the original Russian Tea Room version of the 1930s. There is room to go dryer, which is what David Embury suggests. A ratio of 15ml Benedictine to 75ml vodka still yields a very distinctive drink.

Numerous variations exist. David Embury recommends orange bitters. Other herbal liqueurs, like Chartreuse, can substitute for the Benedictine. Some old recipes even add lemon and orange juices to reinterpret it as a sour. Finally, the cocktail can be enriched by replacing 15ml of the vodka with cognac and cutting back the Benedictine – it becomes almost a delicate take on the B&B.

Five dates to remember / 不可不記的五個(gè)時(shí)間點(diǎn)

1913

Mack Sennett執(zhí)導(dǎo)、Mabel Normand和Roscoe Arbuckle主演的無(wú)聲電影《吉普賽女王》發(fā)行。的確有幾款雞尾酒從電影和音樂(lè)劇中獲得靈感，但沒(méi)有證據(jù)表明吉普賽女王雞尾酒與同名電影有什么瓜葛。

Release of The Gypsy Queen, a silent film directed by Mack Sennett and starring Mabel Normand and Roscoe Arbuckle. While movies and musicals inspired a few cocktails, there is no evidence linking our Gypsy Queen to its cinematic namesake.

1927

具有傳奇色彩的俄國(guó)茶室在紐約開業(yè)。它更像是一家酒吧兼餐廳而不是茶室，據(jù)說(shuō)是俄羅斯皇家芭蕾舞團(tuán)的退休成員專門為了招待身在紐約的俄國(guó)人而創(chuàng)辦的，不過(guò)目前所知最早的老板其實(shí)是Albertina Rasch——這位出生在奧地利的波蘭籍猶太人曾在維也納國(guó)家歌劇院學(xué)藝，但后來(lái)在百老匯成名。因?yàn)樗陌倮蠀R背景，俄國(guó)茶室很快吸引了眾多娛樂(lè)圈人士，并逐漸成為紐約上流社會(huì)經(jīng)常光顧的場(chǎng)所。

The iconic Russian Tea Room opens in New York, being more bar and restaurant than tea room. Reputedly established to serve New York’s Russian expat community by retired members of the Russian Imperial Ballet, the earliest recorded owner was actually Albertina Rasch – an Austrian-born Polish Jew who studied at the Vienna State Opera but gained fame on Broadway. Her Broadway connections soon attracted entertainment types, and gradually became a fixture of New York high society.

1937

WJ Tarling在《皇家咖啡館雞尾酒手冊(cè)》一書中提到了吉普賽女王，但是令人遺憾的是并未給出配方。這本著作有一個(gè)附加章節(jié)，標(biāo)題是《其他雞尾酒索引——限于篇幅恕不一一贅述》，讀者可以寫信索取配方，一個(gè)配方要價(jià)一先令。而我們要想寫信只能等著時(shí)光機(jī)發(fā)明的那一天了。

WJ Tarling’s Cafe Royal Cocktail Book refers to a Gypsy Queen, but frustratingly gives no recipe. The cocktail appears in a supplementary section titled “Index to names of cocktails too numerous for inclusion of recipes in this book”, with readers directed to request recipes by post, at a shilling apiece. Taking up this tempting invitation will have to await the invention of a time machine.

1938

紐約的俄國(guó)茶室出版了一本名為《俄國(guó)菜肴及原料》的家常菜譜手冊(cè)。雞尾酒部分的重點(diǎn)是伏特加，這在那個(gè)年代實(shí)屬罕見，我們?cè)谶@里面找到了已知最早的吉普賽女王配方。這款雞尾酒的起源至今不為人知。David Wondrich將這本手冊(cè)從歷史的塵埃中挖掘出來(lái)，他猜想吉普賽女王可能是俄國(guó)茶室自創(chuàng)的酒品。俄國(guó)茶室主打1933年的伏特加雞尾酒——禁酒令正是在這一年解除。不過(guò)，WJ Tarling之前也提到過(guò)吉普賽女王，讓人不禁懷疑它是從其他地方流入紐約的。

New York’s Russian Tea Room releases a booklet of house recipes entitled Russian Dishes and What They Are Made Of. Uniquely for the time, the focus of the cocktail section is vodka, and here we find the earliest known recipe for a Gypsy Queen. The cocktail’s origins remain mysterious. David Wondrich, who unearthed this recipe booklet, reckons it was a house invention. The Russian Tea Room made a feature of vodka cocktails from 1933 – the year Prohibition ended. But the tantalising earlier mention by WJ Tarling invites speculation that the drink drifted into New York from elsewhere.

1950

隨著伏特加逐漸成為美國(guó)人酒杯中的寵兒，吉普賽女王——以一個(gè)真正流浪者的姿態(tài)——仍然在雞尾酒世界的邊緣保持著低調(diào)。它會(huì)偶然出現(xiàn)在配方手冊(cè)里，不過(guò)永遠(yuǎn)不會(huì)威脅到莫斯科騾子或伏特加馬提尼的至尊地位。它也可以簡(jiǎn)稱吉普賽（取代了更早出現(xiàn)的以馬提尼為靈感的吉普賽）。David Embury在1958年版《調(diào)酒的藝術(shù)》中同時(shí)用了這兩個(gè)名字來(lái)稱呼它。

As vodka rolls on towards becoming America’s favourite spirit, the Gypsy Queen, in true traveller fashion, maintains a low profile on the fringes of the cocktail world. It crops up in recipe booklets, but never threatens the popularity of the Moscow Mule or Vodka Martini. The drink also becomes known simply as the Gypsy (replacing the earlier Martini-inspired Gypsy). David Embury lists the drink under both names in the 1958 edition of his The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks.