• 作者: dfmzhu
• 來源: 佛山展翅調酒師學
• 日期: 2015-03-05
• 瀏覽次數: 4629 次

1. 即使是“皮斯科”一詞的起源都存在爭議。
根據提問對象的不同，皮斯科的名字起源也五花八門：誕生地、秘魯伊卡大區的某個印第安部落、用于儲存和運輸它的陶罐或是蓋丘亞印第安語中的“鳥”一詞。各種說法令人迷惑。而誕生地一說亦十分混亂：秘魯境內有叫皮斯科的城市、地區、省份、河流及山谷??這個謎題可能有多個正確答案。至于陶罐一說，它們在蓋丘亞語中叫做皮斯科（意思為“鳥兒”），而在西班牙語中則叫做博蒂哈。最后，盡管智利北部有座小鎮也叫皮斯科，但它是根據酒命名的，而不是相反。1936年，位于智利艾爾基谷皮斯科產區的拉烏尼翁更名為皮斯科艾爾基。但人們相信這是一次商業炒作，同時也是為了保護智利皮斯科的合法性。

1. Even the etymology of the word “pisco” is debated.
Depending who you ask, pisco takes it name from any number of sources: its place of origin, an Indian tribe from the Ica region in Peru, the ceramic jars used to store and transport the stuff, or the word for “bird” in the Quechua Indian language. Confusion reigns. Even the place of origin theory is messy: Peru has a city, district, province, river and valley… all called Pisco. This riddle could have many right answers. Regarding the jars, in Quechua they are piskos (literally “birds”) while in Spanish they are botijas. Finally, while northern Chile also has a town named Pisco, it is named after the drink, not vice versa. In 1936, La Unión, in Chile’s pisco-producing Elqui Valley, renamed itself Pisco Elqui. But this is believed to be a marketing stunt and legal ploy to protect Chile’s right to call its product “pisco”.

2. 皮斯科自稱是美洲最古老的烈酒，但這并不正確。
卡莎薩實際上比皮斯科古老得多。不過，皮斯科的確有幾百年歷史，而且從誕生之初起便是精心釀制——這在美洲是獨一無二的。卡莎薩是甘蔗生產的副產品，在很長一段時間里都品質粗糙，而且主要供奴隸們飲用，而創造了皮斯科的耶穌會會士們是當時的葡萄種植、釀酒及蒸餾專家。因此，我們可以說皮斯科是美洲第一款品質穩定的烈酒，但卻不是最古老的烈酒。

2. Pisco is not, as claimed, the oldest spirit from the Americas.
Cachaça, in fact, is much older than pisco. Still, it’s true the spirit has several hundred years of history and is unique in the Americas in being carefully crafted right from the beginning of its production. Unlike cachaça, which developed as a sideline of sugar production, and for a long time was rough and drunk mostly by slaves, the Jesuit monks involved in the development of pisco were the experts of their day in viniculture, wine making and distillation. So while it might be fair to call pisco the first spirit of any consistent quality produced in the Americas – it was not the first.

3. 智利聲稱自己是皮斯科原產地，但這一說法在很大程度上不被承認。
在皮斯科的“國籍”之爭中，秘魯在大多數問題上都戰勝了智利。地理造成了混亂。在智利和秘魯成為麻煩鄰居前，它們都屬于秘魯總督區——這片面積巨大的西班牙殖民地覆蓋了南美洲大部分區域，行政機關設在利馬。1880年代，這兩個新獨立的國家陷入戰爭，最后智利奪取了一部分秘魯領土，包括伊基克港——根據某些（不被采信的）的說法，這里是皮斯科酸酒的誕生地。不過，最早的皮斯科產地無疑是在如今的秘魯境內，尤其是阿雷基帕、利馬、庫斯科和阿亞庫喬。最近，作為中立仲裁者的歐洲委員會認定秘魯是皮斯科原產地。

3. Chile’s claim as the original home of pisco has been largely discredited.
Peru can claim victory on most fronts in its squabble with Chile as to who “owns” pisco. Geography muddies the debate. Before Chile and Peru became unruly neighbours they belonged to the Viceroyalty of Peru – a giant Spanish colony administered from Lima that stretched across most of South America. The inhabitants of the Viceroyalty distilled pisco wherever they grew grapes and colonial vineyards existed in both Chile and Peru. In the 1880s, the two newly independent nations fought a war that ended with Chile grabbing Peruvian territory, including the port of Iquique – the so-called birthplace of the Pisco Sour, according to some (discredited) accounts. However, the earliest pisco was undoubtedly distilled in what is now modern Peru – specifically Arequipa, Lima, Cuzco and Ayacucho. As a neutral umpire, the European Commission recently recognised pisco as being of Peruvian origin.

4. 秘魯嚴格監控皮斯科生產。
在秘魯，皮斯科生產僅限在特定的原產地區域進行，主要是利馬南部的肥沃山谷。它可以使用八個葡萄品種，分別是卡班圖、黑克里奧拉、莫拉、意大利、莫斯卡特、阿比拉、特濃迪和尤維娜。純葡萄汁發酵之后小批量蒸餾至裝瓶酒精度。蒸餾完畢后，酒液需在無反應容器中陳放至少三個月。盡管傳統做法是用陶罐陳放，現代釀酒商都會采用水泥、不銹鋼或塑料材質的大型儲罐。嚴禁木桶陳年，因為木桶具有反應性，會對風味和色澤產生影響。最后生產出來的酒飽含純凈的葡萄風味，不使用任何的添加劑（也包括糖）。

4. Peru closely regulates the production of pisco.
In Peru, pisco production is limited to a specific geographic designation of origin, basically comprising the fertile coastal valleys south of Lima. Eight grape varieties can be used: quebranta, negra criolla, molar, italia, muscatel, albilla, torontel and uvina. The spirit must be batch-distilled to final proof, from a wash fermented solely from grape juice. After distillation the spirit must be rested for a minimum of three months in non-reactive vessels. Although resting traditionally employed ceramic jars, the modern practice is to use large tanks of concrete, stainless steel, or plastic. Barrel ageing is prohibited since barrels are reactive and will influence taste and colour. The result is a spirit with a pure flavour of grapes, free from additives such as sugar.

5. 秘魯皮斯科分為三類。
根據秘魯法規，純皮斯科以單一葡萄品種釀造。八個被認可的葡萄品種分為芳香型和無香型。前者包括阿比拉、意大利、莫斯卡特和特濃迪，后者包括卡班圖（最常見）、莫拉、黑克里奧拉和尤維娜。混合皮斯科以芳香葡萄和無香葡萄混釀而成。原汁皮斯科的風格更為濃郁，由“綠色”葡萄汁蒸餾而來——也就是說葡萄汁未經完全發酵。常用來調酒的是以強勁葡萄為原料的混合皮斯科或純皮斯科——卡班圖是最受歡迎的。芳香葡萄釀造的皮斯科和原汁皮斯科則適合純飲。

5. There are three classifications of pisco in Peru.
Under Peruvian regulations pisco puro comes from a single grape variety. The eight permitted varieties are evenly split between aromatic and non-aromatic. The former are albilla, italia, muscatel and torontel while the non-aromatics are quebranta (the most popular), molar, negra criolla and uvina. Pisco acholado indicates a blend of both aromatic and non-aromatic grapes. Pisco musto verde is a richer pisco distilled from a must that remains “green” – in other words, incompletely fermented. Conventional wisdom is to make cocktails from acholado or a pisco puro based on robust grapes – quebranta is the favourite. Aromatic varieties and musto verde tend to be savoured straight.

6. 傳統皮斯科陳年類似于中國白酒。
和中國白酒壇一樣，多孔滲水的陶制博蒂哈為氧化創造了便利條件，同時又沒有木桶陳年帶來的木頭味。不過，使用博蒂哈的傳統正在慢慢消亡。

6. Traditional pisco ageing has parallels with Chinese spirits.
Like Chinese wine jars, porous clay botijas allow oxidation without the wood flavours that accompany barrel ageing. Still, the use of botijas is a fading tradition.

7. 國，但與智利相比，它的皮斯科總產量相形見絀。
得益于自身龐大的葡萄酒產業，智利的皮斯科產量比秘魯高八倍。智利人口比秘魯少得多，但皮斯科消耗量卻更高。智利的法規比秘魯寬松，生產的皮斯科風格可以更清淡。釀酒商擁有更多的生產自由，只要最后的產品帶葡萄味就行了。因此，智利皮斯科一般連續蒸餾至高酒精度，葡萄汁蒸餾而成的原漿常常會混入較廉價的酒液。由于生產成本較低，智利皮斯科成為了價格實惠的日常酒飲。與秘魯不同的是，智利還允許木桶陳年，從而釀造出適合品鑒的高端陳釀皮斯科。

7. Peru might “own” pisco but its total production is dwarfed by Chile’s.
Aided by an enormous wine industry, Chilean pisco production exceeds that of Peru by seven times. Chilean consumption is also higher despite its much smaller population. Chile’s regulations are looser than Peru’s and permit a lighter drink. Producers have considerable leeway provided the final spirit has the flavour of grapes. Hence Chilean pisco tends to use continuous distillation to high proof, and the grape distillate is often cut with cheaper sources of alcohol. Lower production costs make Chilean pisco an affordable, everyday drink. Unlike in Peru, Chile also permits barrel ageing to create, premium, age-stated sipping pisco.

8. 皮斯科不是格拉帕的南美版。
盡管兩者均為無色葡萄白蘭地，但格拉帕的原料是果渣（葡萄酒釀造過程中葡萄榨汁殘留的果皮和籽），而皮斯科的原料則是葡萄汁。格拉帕是一種副產品，但皮斯科是一門單獨的地方性釀酒學——至少在秘魯是如此。去秘魯超市看一看就明白了：貨架上的皮斯科種類遠遠超過葡萄酒。

8. Pisco is not a South American version of grappa.
Although both are clear grape brandies, grappa is made from pomace (the pressed grape skins and seeds discarded by wine makers), while pisco is made from juice. Grappa is a by-product while pisco, at least in Peru, is the whole purpose of local viniculture. The point becomes clear if you check out a Peruvian supermarket – the range of pisco far exceeds that of wine.

9. 在秘魯，一瓶皮斯科通常包含六到八公斤葡萄的蒸餾精華。
對未經完全發酵的原汁皮斯科而言，這一數量高達十二公斤。

9. In Peru, a single bottle of pisco typically contains the distilled essence of six to eight kilograms of grapes.
For musto verde styles, in which the must is not fully fermented, this increases to around 12 kilograms.

10. 除了皮斯科酸酒，秘魯和智利還有許多傳統喝法。
最流行的莫過于皮斯科樂，也就是加了一個青檸角的皮斯科兌可口可樂。這款酒既簡單又可口，在智利的人氣要高于秘魯。秘魯的版本一般會用到印加可樂——類似于佳得樂的甜膩軟飲。更經典的喝法是大船長雞尾酒，也就是以皮斯科為基酒的曼哈頓。與曼哈頓不同的是，它并不總是冰涼的。有人覺得室溫能更好地體現皮斯科風味。

10. Both Peru and Chile have many traditional serves beyond the pisco sour.
King among these is the Piscola, a simple mix of pisco and Coca-Cola served with a lime wedge. Deliciously simple, this drink is far more popular in Chile than Peru. The Peruvian version often uses Inca Cola – an icky-sweet soft drink reminiscent of Gatorade. For something more classic try the El Capitán, a Manhattan made with pisco. Unlike a Manhattan, though, the drink is not always iced. Some feel the pisco’s flavours are better showcased at room temperature.

11. 皮斯科有極大的調酒潛力，等待你去挖掘。
對尋找靈感的創意調酒師而言，將提基經典作為考量對象并不算太壞，比如說霧中小艇。這款粗獷雞尾酒的原料包括朗姆酒、金酒、雪莉酒、柑橘類水果和杏仁糖漿，而皮斯科能夠為它帶來神奇的活力，從而打造出一款平衡又富有魅力的新酒飲。

11. Pisco has great untapped potential in cocktails.
Creative bartenders seeking inspiration can do worse than looking to tiki classics such as, say, the Fogcutter. Pisco provides the magic that animates this raucous mix of rum, gin, sherry, citrus and orgeat, somehow producing a coherent and charismatic drinking companion.

12. 皮斯科是加州淘金熱的經典酒飲。
在我們的想象中，美國西部拓荒者們似乎終日與威士忌為伍，但直到1869年太平洋鐵路建成之前，加利福尼亞人沿著海岸去秘魯買皮斯科更方便——而不是去大陸另一頭的肯塔基或費城買威士忌。因此，那些發了橫財的淘金工人很可能會進城大喝一頓皮斯科。皮斯科潘趣是繼皮斯科酸酒之后的最著名的皮斯科雞尾酒，它誕生在舊金山也就不足為奇了。

12. Pisco was the classic drink of the Californian gold rush.
Although we tend to imagine the pioneers of the American West spending their days soaked in whiskey, before the completion of the Pacific Railroad in 1869 Californians found it easier to buy pisco from down the coast in Peru than whiskey from Kentucky or Pennsylvania – way over on the other side of the continent. Thus, the stereotypical gold prospector who had struck it rich probably headed into town for a pisco binge. It is not surprising that the Pisco Punch, that other famous pisco drink after the Pisco Sour, originated in San Francisco.

13. 秘魯和智利都設立了特別的國酒節。
秘魯人每年舉辦兩次官方皮斯科狂歡活動：先是二月第一個周六舉行的全國皮斯科酸酒節，接著是七月第四個周日舉行的全國皮斯科節。智利則更為矜持，僅將每年的5月15日定為全國皮斯科節。

13. Both Peru and Chile have set aside special days in honour of their national drink.
Peruvians hold two official pisco parties each year. The first Saturday in February is National Pisco Sour Day, while the fourth Sunday of July is National Pisco Day. Chile is more restrained, limiting the festivities to National Pisco Day on May 15.

14. 秘魯和智利的“皮斯科之爭”仍然十分緊張。
2007年，智利提出共享皮斯科一詞并合作推廣，遭到秘魯拒絕。智利的官方立場是承認皮斯科誕生于秘魯，但堅持本國享有使用該詞的權利——考慮到智利漫長的生產歷史，這一要求可謂是合理的。兩國都禁止從對方國家進口皮斯科。秘魯對禁令的態度更嚴肅，而智利實際上是秘魯皮斯科的主要市場——盡管是以“白蘭地”的名義進口的。智利鑒賞家們在盡情享用秘魯佳釀，智利政府也承認了皮斯科的秘魯國籍，或許秘魯是時候緩和一下情緒、打開分享之門了？

14. Tensions remain high in the “pisco war” between Peru and Chile.
In 2007 Peru rejected a Chilean offer to share the term pisco and cooperate on promotion. The official Chilean position recognises pisco’s Peruvian origins but insists on Chile’s right to use the term – reasonable given Chile’s long production history. Each country bans the import of the other’s product. Peru is more serious about the ban, though, while Chile is in fact a major market for Peruvian pisco – imported as “brandy”. With Chilean connoisseurs sipping Peruvian juice and the Chilean government accepting Peru as pisco’s daddy, perhaps it is time Peru chilled out and shared its toys?